“Can we change how people see preciousness?” – Vivek Ramabhadran

In a tete-a-tete with The Retail Jeweller, Founder and CEO Vivek Ramabhadran explains how Aulerth is seeding the idea of luxury in eco-conscious retailing and disrupting the notion of preciousness, one ethically crafted piece at a time with their couture-inspired jewellery brand.

Founded in 2021 on the premise of changing the narrative about precious jewellery, Aulerth has embarked on a journey to revolutionize how jewellery is perceived, crafted and consumed. From eco-conscious practices to encouraging mindful consumption through its jewellery rental scheme’ Loop’ and unused jewellery return plan ‘Let go’, Aulerth is filling the gap between consumer rhetoric on sustainability and actual behavioural patterns by offering a blend of luxury and eco-consciousness across all touchpoints of the brand even as behind the scenes, Ramabhadran integrates sustainability through recycled materials, low-footprint production, and circular practices, while talking to The Retail Jeweller India.

Edited Excerpts:

The Retail Jeweller (TRJ): What is the philosophy behind the origin of Aulerth?

Vivek Ramabhadran (VR): It is based on a simple thought: Can we make preciousness all about beautiful design, finesse, craftsmanship, and conscious, caring ideology and move it away from being attached to destructive materials? That’s the fundamental theme; that’s what Aulerth stands for.

“In India, while people express interest in sustainable choices, they are unlikely to compromise on product quality or experience. Aulerth’s approach addresses this by prioritizing exceptional luxury experiences alongside sustainability”

TRJ: What inspired you to build such a brand?

VR: My exposure to the fashion and jewellery industry during my tenure at Swarovski revealed a significant gap between evolving consumer preferences and market offerings. India’s obsession with gold, constituting 90% of the jewellery market, raised concerns about the environmental impact of traditional jewellery production. Aulerth was born from the necessity of addressing these concerns. Our mission is rooted in the belief that preciousness should not come at the expense of environmental degradation.

TRJ: Is India- a developing economy, a substantial market for brands built on sustainable values?

VR: Western markets are indeed more accepting of such brands. In India, while people express interest in sustainable choices, they are unlikely to compromise on product quality or experience. Aulerth’s approach addresses this by prioritizing exceptional luxury experiences (Turn to page 108 to know more about their experiential retail outlet) alongside sustainability. We believe in taking responsibility for ensuring a seamless blend of luxury and eco-consciousness, relieving the consumer’s burden of making mindful choices.

“Aulerth’s ‘Loop’ initiative offers customers the flexibility to rent jewellery for special occasions at a small price, reducing unnecessary accumulation. We also facilitate circular usage by encouraging customers to return unused jewellery for restoration credits”

TRJ: Could you elaborate on the processes and materials Aulerth uses to ensure the responsible production of its jewellery?

VR: Aulerth’s jewellery production begins with the meticulous collection of recycled brass from Mumbai’s scrap yards, ensuring a sustainable approach from the outset. This brass undergoes precise processing and treatment to meet stringent quality standards, including measures to prevent adverse skin reactions. We also incorporate stainless steel and other industrial metals, repurposing them.

TRJ: The design offering is on par with international luxury standards. Comment

VR: We aim to offer sustainable alternatives without compromising quality or design aesthetics. The emphasis on design excellence serves not only aesthetic purposes but is also a way to inspire conscious consumer choices. With an internal design team dedicated to innovation, we utilize recycled materials and adopt eco-friendly production processes, minimising our environmental footprint.

TRJ: Your commitment to offsetting the carbon footprint entirely within the next two years is commendable. How do you plan to achieve this goal?

VR: Aulerth’s ‘Loop’ initiative allows customers to rent jewellery for special occasions at a small price, reducing unnecessary accumulation. We also facilitate circular usage by encouraging customers to return unused jewellery for restoration credits with our ‘Let Go initiative.’ We aim to promote mindful consumption and offer sustainable alternatives to traditional jewellery ownership models. By providing options for temporary usage and incentivizing returns, we aim to extend the lifecycle of our products and minimize waste. Through initiatives like ‘Loop’ and ‘Let Go’, we strive to foster a culture of sustainability and promote responsible consumption practices among our customers. This helps us to inch towards our goal bit by bit.

TRJ: Could you tell us more about your collaborations with renowned designers? How do you uphold Indian artistic traditions while appealing to a global audience?

VR: Aulerth collaborates with leading designers like Ekaya Banaras, Shivan & Narresh, Tribe Amrapali, Suneet Varma, and JJV by JJ Valaya. The collaboration melds the designer’s artistic direction and aesthetic with Aulerth’s technical expertise to create sustainable luxury offerings. However, we maintain control over the entire production chain, from raw material procurement to design, handcrafting, and manufacturing, to manage the integrity of our brand promise.

TRJ: Who is your target audience, and what are your price points?

VR: Individuals with a discerning sense of design and appreciation of sustainable products. The price points range from Rs 3,500 to Rs 2,50,000. While our products appeal to a broad demographic, we have observed particular interest among NRIs and individuals exposed to global trends and aesthetics.

TRJ: Please tell us about revenue distribution from your different channels.

VR: In 2023, we set up three physical stores in quick succession in Delhi, Mumbai and Hyderabad. Approximately 70% of our sales come from channels, including online platforms and physical stores. Within this segment, around 55% to 60% of revenue is generated from our standalone stores, while the remaining comes from online sales. We also distribute our products through third-party channels such as multi-designer stores, contributing to approximately 30% of our total revenue. As we expand our online presence and retail footprint, we anticipate further growth across all distribution channels within the next couple of years.

Aulerth has raised a total funding of $1.1M over 1 round. Its latest funding round was a Seed round for $1.1M, with a valuation of $4.16M as of Dec 24, 2021 with designer Tarun Tahiliani as one of the investor

TRJ: What are some critical goals for Aulerth regarding sustainability, innovation and market expansion?

VR: Moving forward, our goals include expanding our distribution channels, enhancing our online presence, and increasing market penetration both domestically and internationally. Additionally, we seek to strengthen partnerships with designers to showcase India’s artistic heritage on a global stage. The brand aims to integrate sustainable practices into every facet of its business model, further integrating them into our operations and becoming a leading voice in the jewellery industry, advocating sustainable practices and driving positive consumer behaviour changes.

Written by Maithili Patange