The Rainbow Market

Are jewellers beginning to see the potential of the LGBTQ+ community to not only build a new customer base but also take a stand on the matter—showing purpose, inclusiveness, and authenticity and building a new brand narrative appealing to the youth in general? The Retail Jeweller finds out

According to a 20-year-old article by Charlie Porter in The Guardian, ‘Fashion embraces homosexuality’, non-binaries have a much stronger interest in showing themselves off than heterosexuals. Jewellery—with its varied styles, forms and materials—makes for an ideal accessory for the LGBTQ+ community to exhibit their individuality with pride. It is 2024. Has the time come for the Indian jewellery industry to break free from gender norms and embrace inclusivity?

Brands like Senco Gold & Diamonds, a listed jeweller from West Bengal, Giva, a fine silver jewellery brand, and No Na Mé, a brand that makes minimalist yet bold statement designs and loudly proclaims to be a brand for all genders, have recognised the untapped potential in this fashion-forward market. No Na Mé’s sales have significantly grown since its inception in 2020, and Giva’s first ‘Pride Collection’, introduced in 2023, sold out in just three months.
The LGBTQ+ community is known for their keen sense of fashion and love for accessories. It is a form of self-expression, allowing them to convey their identity with versatile jewellery designs that do not conform to the binary system. According to the 2011 census, 10 per cent of the Indian population is non-binary, and this percentage will most likely increase by 2024. Ignoring this substantial customer base is a missed opportunity. Nikita Prasad, Creative Director at Giva, explains, “How the LGBTQ+ community styles our products adds different perspectives to our jewellery.” By offering gender-fluid jewellery, Giva is not just selling products but expanding its customer base.

Smruti Mathisekaran, Founder of No Na Mé, emphasises, “People from the LGBTQ+ community have to switch between women’s and men’s jewellery to find their own style and fashion, which seems unfair. Gender-fluid jewellery should be encouraged.” The brand’s commitment to creating jewellery that empowers individuals, regardless of gender, has resonated deeply with its geometric and neutral designs, which are neither overtly masculine nor feminine.

“People from the LGBTQ+ community have to switch between women’s and men’s jewellery to find their own style and fashion, which seems unfair. Gender-fluid jewellery should be encouraged”
-Smruti Mathisekaran, Founder, No Na Mé

Brands are not just introducing new ranges but actively collaborating with personalities championing LGBTQ+ rights. This year, Giva collaborated with popular LGBTQ+ influencers Vivek Ghosh (The Beard Queen) and Joshua Okesalako during Pride Month. Last year’s collaborations include Rajat Singh and Anukul Dhara, also known as Rajkumari Coco. Giva has also worked with popular fashion influencers like Ankush Bahuguna, Siddharth Batra, and Komal Pandey, who advocate gender fluidity. “We aim to promote our collections through faces that believe in and represent gender fluidity. These collaborations enhance brand visibility and reinforce the commitment to inclusivity,” says Prasad. No Na Mé also collaborates with faces supporting the cause of LGBTQ+ people to strengthen its position amongst community members.

“We aim to promote our collections through faces that believe in and represent gender fluidity. These collaborations enhance brand visibility and reinforce the commitment to inclusivity”
-Nikita Prasad, Creative Director, Giva

Similarly, Joita Sen, Director and Head of Marketing and Design at Senco Gold & Diamonds highlights the impact of their collaboration with an Indian drag queen, singer, and actor, Sushant Divgikar, for the Pride Month 2024 anthem ‘Pehchaan’. “This campaign, driven by powerful storytelling, a vibrant soundtrack, and wearing stunning Senco Gold & Diamonds jewellery, underscores the importance of acceptance and belonging,” she says. The video has reached more than 2,63,000 views on YouTube within just four weeks.

“This campaign, driven by powerful storytelling, a vibrant soundtrack, and wearing stunning Senco Gold & Diamonds jewellery, underscores the importance of acceptance and belonging”
-Joita Sen, Director and Head of Marketing and Design, Senco Gold & Diamonds

Senco first demonstrated its support for the community in 2019, launching a Pride collection—gold starting at Rs. 16,000, a silver collection at Rs. 500 onwards, and a fashion show titled ‘Sphulingo – Freedom of Expression’. The activity was led by well-known Professor (College Principal) & LGBT activist Dr Manabi Bandyopadhyay, where a group of transgender men and women dressed in mythological characters from Indian epics sashayed down the ramp at Senco Gold & Diamonds’ Mega Shop on CIT Road in Kolkata.

Giva’s first Pride Collection was launched in Pride Month 2023. The overwhelming response encouraged the brand to focus on this segment, contributing approximately 10 per cent of total sales. Prasad says, “We introduce gender-fluid ranges, neither distinctly masculine nor feminine, alongside our usual men’s and women’s jewellery,” underscoring the potential for growth in this niche market.

Since its inception in 2020, No Na Mé has seen significant growth, with sales increasing by 50-80 per cent yearly from the second year onwards. Despite the challenges posed by the pandemic, the brand has established a strong digital presence and is working on further expanding in international markets. “With the design language we have, I want to enter, especially the US. I will start with a shop-in-shop retail model to enter the market, similar to the model I followed in India expansion,” says Mathisekaran.

Senco Gold & Diamonds is a pioneer among traditional retail jewellers in launching a collection dedicated to non-binary genders. Beyond business, their commitment to social responsibility is evident in their hiring practices and community support. Sen emphasises, “We actively hire from the LGBTQIA+ community and support inclusivity through various initiatives.”

While the nuances and opportunities of the gender-fluid category are yet to unfold for the precious jewellery market, these jewellers present a compelling business case for Indian jewellers to start thinking in a new direction. By not targeting the LGBTQ+ community, known for their extraordinary sense of fashion and self-expression, is the Indian jewellery industry missing out on a niche market? By embracing the community, will it open its doors to a new customer base and the general public seeking to associate with progressive and inclusive brands?

Written by Pratyasha Kumari