High gold prices leading to strained consumer budgets and demand for versatility drive brands to offer lighter jewellery, balancing high aesthetic impact with affordability across bridal and everyday categories. Silver sees strong traction as a segment
Mumbai: At the 41st edition of the India International Jewellery Show (IIJS) Premiere 2025, held from July 30 to August 4, 2025 across Mumbai’s Jio World Convention Centre and Bombay Exhibition Centre (NESCO), India’s jewellery industry revealed its evolving strategies in response to persistent gold price volatility and shifting consumer preferences. Despite cost pressures, buyers remained engaged, and manufacturers leaned into innovation—cutting weight, not corners—through smarter design, new materials, and strategic merchandising.
Across both venues, the sentiment among serious buyers and exhibitors was cautiously optimistic. Retailers came in with specific requirements, and exhibitors responded with focused assortments. From lightweight bridal sets and gemstone-studded pieces to fusion formats and unconventional materials, the emphasis was on aesthetic impact within budget.
LESS WEIGHT, MORE VALUE
Lightweight jewellery was a defining trend, as brands focused on reducing gold content while retaining visual appeal. Aryan Singhania, Director, Shree Omkar Jewellers, said, “We have brought lightweight items in Polki, coloured jewellery and even nakshi. Our bridal haars now start from 35 to 40 grams.”
Nishi Seth, Partner, S.K. Seth Jewellers, noted, “We tried to make jewellery lightweight because of the rate. Intricate detailing was the focus, and the response has been very good.”
Chetan Thadeshwar, Director, Shringar – House of Mangalsutra, added, “We have focused on weight-optimized craftsmanship, striking a balance between aesthetic grandeur and economic feasibility, especially in our daily wear mangalsutra segment. We have also seen increased interest in modular designs that offer versatility without increasing weight.”
Sky Gold and Diamonds launched the 24kt Pureza Collection as a wearable alternative to gold coins, alongside a multi-tone 9kt gold line aimed at younger buyers. “We have reduced gold weight by up to 50% in some nakshi and temple designs using techniques like stamping and electroforming, without compromising on appearance,” the company stated.
Akash Talesara, President, Sky Gold & Diamonds and Darshan Chauhan, Wholetime Director, Sky Gold & Diamonds with Sachin Jain, Regional CEO India, World Gold Council
Yuriko Menon, Director, Goldstar Jewellery, said, “We have also started using 9kt gold for some brands to solve this. We introduced a different gold colour this year and received an amazing response. Consumers are seeking jewellery that can transition seamlessly from day to night… delicate necklaces, stackable rings, and modular earrings are popular because they offer multiple styling options.”
A corporate-focused exhibitor, who did not want to be named, reported increased demand for lightweight pieces with coloured stones, driven by their versatility.
Kantilal Shah, Founder and Director, Ansaa Jewellers Pvt Ltd, said, “We have brought Navratna jewellery and kept it lightweight to stay market-relevant. With gold prices at current levels, this is essential for remaining competitive.”
Swati Hans, Marketing Director, Oro Precious Metals, explained, “We changed our alloying system, maintaining 22kt, 21kt and 18kt purity so that the strength is maintained even at lower weights. We also introduced the Triwa line, three seamlessly joined bangles, and openable bracelets where the lock is integrated into the design, saving weight.”
DESIGN EVOLUTION, NEW MATERIALS
Manufacturers also anticipated changing aesthetic preferences. Vikram Mehta, Director, Mehta Gold & Diamonds, said, “We introduced jadau with fusion, added paper casting and precious stones. Earlier, we only did plain gold, but this time the new concept worked well.”
Chetan Thadeshwar highlighted Shringar’s 24K Shuddh Collection. “The concept resonated because it blends cultural purity with modern craftsmanship, offering consumers a never-before option of wearing a mangalsutra in pure 24 karat gold.”
Aryan Singhania added that Shree Omkar Jewellers reduced gemstone weight along with gold to align with lighter formats.
Vinayak Exports reported strong demand for 925 sterling silver, with 70% of clients being first-time buyers. Their range—from bridal silver to sleek office wear—saw high interest, especially gold-plated silver jewellery for destination weddings. However, another silver manufacturer described the market as “average,” citing high silver prices and growing demand for imported designs.
Material innovation expanded further. Surat-based Enshine used gold in combination with wood, ceramic and chrome. Oro Precious Metals explored platinum–ceramic and gold–ceramic designs, while Goldstar Jewellery employed ceramic and enamel to reduce gold usage without reducing spread.
RETAILERS SEE VALUE IN VERSATILITY
Retailers noted rising demand for statement pieces that offer everyday usability. Vikas Kataria, Managing Director, DP Jewellers, said, “We are seeing bold, studded and chunky jewellery, pieces that make a statement in value-conscious formats.”
Mahendra Khurana, Managing Director, Sundar Jewellers, observed, “All our old suppliers are now offering lightweight collections. There is more interest in jewellery that can be worn in office or on day-to-day basis. Coloured stones are definitely part of the future.”
Neel Pethe, Partner, Waman Hari Pethe Jewellers, noted strong momentum in studded and Polki categories. “Everyday-wear jewellery remains essential. These are the bread-and-butter items in any store, but they work only when you analyse buying patterns carefully. There have also been changes in the gold weights, with many new lightweight collections emerging, and some jewellers moving from 18kt to 14kt. That may well be the way forward,” he said.
BRIDAL REMAINS A PILLAR
The bridal segment remained resilient despite price pressures. Vikas Mehta, Director, Achal Jewels, said, “Buyers are looking for full ranges, especially for bridal. Lace gold jewellery is seeing good movement. The focus is now more on Polki and diamond, rather than just gold.”
Silver bridal jewellery also saw growth. Vinayak Exports reported a 20% increase, driven by demand for gold-plated silver that resembles gold. However, some silver manufacturers saw weaker performance due to volatility and competition from imports.
CLEAR INTENT, STRONG GROWTH
Exhibitors across categories noted more focused buyers, with many expecting 20-30% growth over last year. Shringar and Goldstar observed that retailers came with clear agendas and were ready to place orders. Oro Precious Metals described the show as a “pleasant surprise” while Sky Gold called IIJS 2025 its best edition in five years.
IIJS Premiere 2025 reaffirmed its role as a trendsetting and commercially vital event, offering a reliable barometer of industry sentiment and shaping the path forward for India’s dynamic jewellery market.
Written by Aparna Bhowmick
Retail Jeweller India Exclusive
